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In Madanpura, Women's Hands Give Banarasi Sarees Their Final Touch

In Madanpura, Women's Hands Give Banarasi Sarees Their Final Touch
In Madanpura, a Women-Led Final Touch Makes Every Banarasi Saree Flawless · thebetterindia.com

Banarasi sarees are very fancy silk dresses made by hand in a city called Varanasi in India.

Many people work together to make just one saree.

A big weaving machine called a loom makes the patterned cloth, and usually a man in the family runs it.

But a lot of other jobs are needed before and after the weaving.

Women in the Madanpura neighbourhood sort the silk threads by colour, wind them onto bobbins, check the cloth for mistakes, and cut off tiny loose threads.

Cutting the little threads is called katorna, and Shaheen is very good at it because she learned it from her mother-in-law.

The women often do this work while also cooking and looking after children.

When the saree is finished, the whole family gets paid together, so the women's special work does not get its own payment.

Some of the women wish people knew whose hands finished each saree.

Even though nobody outside knows their names, without their careful work the saree would not look perfect.

Key facts

Location
Madanpura, an old weaving neighbourhood in Varanasi
Craft
Banarasi silk sarees and brocades
Key finishing process
Katorna — cutting extraneous threads from the reverse of a woven saree
Houses visited
Around 7–8 weaving homes
Women interviewed
Approximately 10–15
Payment system
Via gaddidar (contractor); paid to the household once the saree is completed and delivered
GI registration
Banaras Brocades and Sarees, 2009
Notable artisans
Shaheen (katorna) and Nazreen (silk thread sorting)

Quotes

Shaheen

Senior Banarasi saree finisher in Madanpura, Varanasi

“"People spend so much on a Banarasi saree. They know all about the design, the silk, the zari. But they don’t know whose hands finished it."”
thebetterindia.com
“"This work may seem small from the outside, but the saree won’t look right if it’s not done properly. Every thread has to be perfect."”
thebetterindia.com

Sources

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