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Chefs reimagine Indian mithai in savoury fine-dining dishes

Chefs reimagine Indian mithai in savoury fine-dining dishes
How chefs are giving ‘mithai’ a savoury spin · livemint.com

Chefs in India are taking traditional Indian sweets, called mithai, and turning them into savoury dishes for fine-dining restaurants.

They are using techniques that have been passed down for generations to create new and exciting dishes.

For example, one chef made a savoury version of a sweet called Mawa Khaja using Norwegian-style cheese and caviar.

Another chef created a dish inspired by a traditional Bengali kheer, topped with truffles.

These chefs are not only making new dishes but also recognizing the skill and expertise that goes into making traditional mithai.

They believe that these techniques should be taught in culinary schools alongside European pastry techniques.

Diners are also becoming more accepting of these innovative dishes, which transform familiar flavors into something new and exciting.

This trend raises questions about how to properly recognize and credit the halwais who have preserved these techniques for generations.

Key facts

Chef Hussain Shahzad
Creates savoury versions of traditional Indian sweets at Papa’s, Mumbai.
Chef Rijul Gulati
Develops savoury dishes inspired by mithai at Indian Accent, Mumbai.
Chef Gaggan Anand
Reimagines Bengali kalo jaam with duck pepper fry at Masque x Gaggan pop-up.
Chef Varun Totlani
Experiments with Indian desserts at Masque, Mumbai.
Mithai Techniques
Involve judging sugar by sight, caramelizing milk, and mastering delicate architectures.
Culinary Schools
Traditionally focus on French pastry and European baking, often overlooking halwai techniques.
Diners' Acceptance
Growing acceptance of innovative Indian fine-dining that transforms familiar memories.

Quotes

Varun Totlani

Chef at Masque restaurant in Mumbai

“"Unfortunately, Indian mithai gets a bad rep because our desserts are very sweet. Most people see the use of sugar as a bad thing and are not able to get past that."”
livemint.com

Sources

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