1 year ago
Ritu Kumar: The Fashion Icon Who Revived Indian Textiles
Ritu Kumar is a famous Indian fashion designer who helped bring back traditional Indian clothing styles.
She started by studying old Indian art and textiles because she wanted to save them.
She found old block printing techniques and started using them in her designs, fighting back against how colonial powers tried to erase Indian designs.
Her clothes became popular worldwide, and she even dressed Princess Diana.
Today, Ritu focuses on preserving Indian textiles and supporting local craftspeople, continuing to make Indian fashion well-known around the world.
Ritu Kumar, at 80, is celebrated for revitalizing Indian fashion and textiles.
Kumar's career began with research into Indian art and textiles, leading her to revive block printing.
She established design units in Bengal, focusing on hand-block printing and traditional crafts.
Kumar expanded globally with stores and dressed royalty, becoming a leading figure in Indian fashion.
She has shifted to archiving Indian textiles, expanding her brand's reach while promoting local artisans.
- Who
- Ritu Kumar, an Indian fashion designer and textile revivalist.
- What
- Ritu Kumar's impact on Indian fashion and textiles.
- Where
- Primarily in India, with early global presence in cities like Paris and New York.
- When
- Kumar began her career in the 1960s and continues to influence fashion today.
- Why
- To revive Indian textile heritage, challenge colonial influences, and promote local artisans.
Western Influence on Indian Fashion
Indian Design and Culture
Cultural Appropriation vs. Preservation
Western Influence on Indian Fashion
Some Western imitations of Indian designs were considered acceptable.
Indian Design and Culture
Kumar and others see Western designs and their imitations as a challenge to the value of original Indian textile.
Key facts
- Age
- 80
- Primary Focus
- Revival of Indian Textiles and Crafts
- First Design Unit
- Serampore, Bengal (1960s)
- International Stores
- Paris, London, New York (1980s-90s)
- Notable Clients
- Princess Diana
- Recent Development
- Reliance Retail acquired 52% of the brand
Quotes
Kumar
Indian fashion and textile revivalist.
“We had an indigenous block printing industry which had been wiped out by colonialists so that they could sell their cheap Lancashire-printed cotton textiles. The wood carvers of Serampore burnt their blocks after losing their livelihood. The British had killed the memory of Indian designs, leaving us with no references. My blood boiled and I found my calling.”
indianexpress.com
“The British would import fabric from India, mimic Indian designs, print them in Lancashire and then sell it back to us. They did the same with chintz, block-printed or hand-painted textiles that were wax-polished. These became very popular in 17th and 18th century Europe but then the mill-made imitations took over.”
indianexpress.com
Ritu Kumar
The doyen of Indian fashion and textile revivalist.
“The potters came here every three years, brought the maati (clay) with them and made the horses here. They still come to layer the horses with clay. It’s all about the earth.”
indianexpress.com
Amrish
Kumar's son, who helms the Western pret line, Label.
“We’ve had private equity before but corporatisation helps us scale up the brand, unlock its value and create a larger market.”
indianexpress.com
Sources
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