Archive · 4 Oct 2026
A Calcutta Quest for the Elusive Golden-Brown Kabiraji
The writer goes around Calcutta looking for a very good chicken kabiraji.
It is a fried cutlet covered in a lacy layer of egg.
Some old cafes do not serve it, and some versions disappoint.
At Allen’s Kitchen, the coating is crisp and the filling has chicken and vegetables.
The writer likes the version at Cafe in Hazra even more.
There, the egg coating is light and the flavors work well together.
The writer also tries a baked pudding made with egg whites, milk, bread, butter, nuts, and raisins.
The pudding turns out to be the happiest surprise of the trip.
The writer searches Calcutta’s old cabins for a crisp, flavorful chicken kabiraji.
Anadi Cabin has become known mainly for Moghlai parota and does not serve kabiraji.
Dilkhusa Cabin’s kabiraji looks appealing but its egg coating is tough to chew.
Allen’s Kitchen serves a crisp kabiraji with chicken, vegetables, and a noticeable ghee flavor.
Cafe in Hazra provides the writer’s favorite kabiraji, while its baked pudding becomes the expedition’s highlight.
- Who
- A writer searching for a satisfying chicken kabiraji.
- What
- A food tour comparing kabiraji dishes at Calcutta eateries.
- When
- On a September afternoon and another day; no year is given.
- Where
- Calcutta, at several cabins and cafes, including Allen’s Kitchen and Cafe in Hazra.
- Why
- The writer wants to find a well-made kabiraji, described as increasingly elusive.
- Dish
- Kabiraji is described as a deep-fried chicken cutlet covered in a lacy, golden-brown egg coating.
- Anadi Cabin
- The writer finds it focused on Moghlai parota and leaves without ordering kabiraji.
- Dilkhusa Cabin
- Its kabiraji has a large speckled egg coating, but the writer finds it difficult to chew.
- Allen’s Kitchen
- The writer enjoys a crisp egg coating, chicken and vegetables, and a base note of ghee.
- Cafe in Hazra
- The writer praises its slender kabiraji, with a light, crisp egg coating.
- Unexpected favorite
- A baked pudding made with egg whites, milk, bread, butter, almonds, cashews, and raisins.