Archive · 16 Sep 2026
France’s Shein Fee Raises Questions About China Competition
France is creating fees for some very cheap and very quickly produced clothing.
The rule is meant to reduce the environmental damage caused by throwaway fashion.
However, the rule is written in a way that mostly affects Chinese online shopping companies.
Critics say France should openly say if it is trying to protect French businesses and jobs.
The first version of the law could have affected major European brands too, but the final version is narrower.
Chinese officials say the measure is unfair and discriminatory.
Other countries are also trying to manage competition from successful Chinese companies.
Thailand, for example, is using different taxes to reward companies that manufacture electric vehicles and use local parts.
The larger question is how countries can support domestic industries without starting a major trade conflict.
France will impose fees on ultra-fast-fashion items, beginning this month, under legislation finalized in June.
The measure is presented as an environmental response but primarily affects Chinese online retailers such as Shein, Temu and AliExpress.
Critics say lobbying narrowed the law from an earlier version that could also have covered Zara and H&M.
Chinese officials have condemned the policy as discriminatory, raising the possibility of retaliation from Beijing.
Thailand’s tiered electric-vehicle taxes are presented as a more transparent way to protect domestic industry and encourage local manufacturing.
- Who
- The French government, Chinese e-commerce companies including Shein, Temu and AliExpress, and critics of the legislation.
- What
- France is imposing fees on ultra-fast-fashion products, prompting debate over environmental regulation, protectionism and possible Chinese retaliation.
- When
- The fees are scheduled to begin this month; the legislation was finalized in June, while the article also references developments from March 2024 and a recent G20 meeting.
- Where
- France, with broader implications for Europe, Latin America and other economies facing Chinese competition.
- Why
- France cites the environmental costs of throwaway clothing, while critics argue the narrowly designed measure effectively protects domestic industries from Chinese competition.
Environmental and Domestic-Industry Protection
Trade Transparency and Non-Discrimination
Purpose of the fees
Environmental and Domestic-Industry Protection
Supporters can argue that fees are needed to curb the environmental costs of ultra-fast fashion and its throwaway clothing model.
Trade Transparency and Non-Discrimination
Critics argue that the measure is so narrowly designed that it effectively singles out Chinese companies rather than addressing fast fashion across the industry.
Effect on Chinese retailers
Environmental and Domestic-Industry Protection
The policy does not name China or specific companies and uses environmental criteria such as the number of new products and repair costs.
Trade Transparency and Non-Discrimination
Critics say those criteria overwhelmingly apply to a small group of Chinese e-commerce platforms, making the distinction largely symbolic and potentially discriminatory.
How to support domestic industry
Environmental and Domestic-Industry Protection
Countries may need to protect productive capacity, jobs and homegrown industries from intense Chinese competition.
Trade Transparency and Non-Discrimination
The article argues that governments should openly identify industrial or employment goals and use direct policies, such as Thailand’s local-manufacturing tax incentives, rather than disguise protectionism as environmental policy.
- Policy
- France will impose fees on ultra-fast-fashion items.
- Start date
- The fees are scheduled to begin this month.
- Legislation
- The final version was approved in June and defines ultra-fast fashion using criteria including product volume and repair costs.
- Companies affected
- The measure is described as primarily affecting Shein, Temu and AliExpress.
- Earlier proposal
- A version passed by France’s lower house in March 2024 was broader and could have included Zara and H&M.
- Chinese response
- Chinese officials have condemned the measure as discriminatory.
- Alternative example
- Thailand announced a multi-tiered tax system for electric vehicles that rewards local manufacturing and locally made parts.